After a couple of looseners in the vast drawing room, you probably won't care about dinner. Vast? They say you can see all the way across to the fireplace on a clear day. Elements are a little Heston-wannabe, but highly accomplished.

Purnell's

Cornwall Street, Birmingham

Glynn Purnell is only 34, but the Brummie leads his city's culinary march. His cooking is humorous as well as tasty, like goat's cheese mousse with a square of reduced jelly in homage to Abigail's Party cocktail culture. Haddock with cornflakes? No really, taste, then criticise.

Entropy

Hinckley Road, Leicester

Chef Tom Cockerill has a degree in physics, virtually a job requirement where he started, the Fat Duck. Now taking a further degree in flavour and perception. He undertakes stints in the kitchens of the world's finest restaurants. It shows.

The Old Bakery

Burton Rd, Lincoln

Two things put me off. First, food that is "international" and "fusion" (so Seventies). Second, it lists famous customers, including Cannon and Ball and Status Quo. What, pray, do they know? Quite a lot, it transpires. Try hay and fresh herb Gloucester old spot.

Hambleton Hall

Oakham, Rutland

Old school, even the ties in the dining room. But it's the family hotel where the Hart brothers – Quo Vadis, Fino – learnt their trade. Impeccable and immaculate, with views of Rutland Waters. But prices are also eye-watering