Pine Cured Salmon and Gravlax Salad

 

Salting fish as a means of preservation has been common place in Europe for centuries. An additional advantage to the increased shelf life that salting provides is that it “buys time”  (when a fish would otherwise be going off) for enzyme activity to break down flavorless protein molecules into the base components of flavor compounds, which react further to produce create complex new flavors, whilst also tenderizing the flesh. In other words, curing fish creates a unique taste & texture.

 

Gravlax is a popular type of cured salmon, originating in Medieval Scandinavia.

 

The original gravlax was lightly salted & then allowed to ferment. By the 18^th Century it had evolved into the unfermented salted, pressed version common place today. 

 

Recipes call for varying amounts of salt, sugar, citrus, spices & pressing time.

 

The herb common to most recipes is dill, a modern replacement for the original pine needles. I remember discovering this last fact a few winters ago, it also happened to be around the twelfth night when I was lumbered with the responsibility of disposing of the Christmas tree! Putting 2 and 2 together I decided to lop off a few branches & experiment…

 

There are several varieties of Christmas tree; usually types of spruce or fir.

 

I prefer firs as the needles are more resinous & less prickly to handle! Both give their own distinctive flavor.

 

Gardening gloves & secateurs are handy if using a spruce.

 

You will need two large rectangular roasting tins to cure & press the salmon.  

 

 

 

·          2               Sides of salmon, pin boned but with the skin still on (approximately 1-1.5kg each)

·          2Kg           Coarse sea salt

·          1Kg           Castor sugar

·          6                Lemons (zest of)

·          8                Limes (zest of)

·          4                Oranges (zest of)

·          150g          Pine sprigs

·          100ml        Brandy

·          1 Tbsp       Coriander seeds

·          1 Tbsp       White peppercorn

·          4 Tbsp       Fresh chopped dill

 

Using sharp kitchen scissors cut the pine sprigs into pieces small enough to fit into your food processor. Place the sea salt, peppercorns, coriander seeds & pine springs into a large bowl.

 

Use your food processor to blend the salt mixture in small batches. Blend each batch until the pine needles start to break down, the salt should take on a slight green tinge & should smell wonderfully resinous & piney.

 

To the blended salt mixture, add the sugar, citrus zest, chopped dill & brandy, mix well.

 

Lay the fillets of salmon flesh side down on a chopping board. Using a sharp knife, pinch the skin tightly with your thumb & forefinger then cut through the skin, half a dozen times on each fillet, this will enable the cure to penetrate through the skin.

 

Line a roasting tin with Clingfilm, (this will help prevent any oxidization) place a quarter of the salt mixture on the bottom, roughly in the shape of one of the salmon fillets.

 

Lay one fillet, skin side down on top of the salt, place 2/3 of the remaining salt on top of the first fillet & place the second fillet flesh side down on top of the first, tail to tail.

 

Finally, place the last of the salt on top of the second fillet, cover the tray with cling film & place the second baking tray on top, weight this down with at least 5kg, anything to hand in your larder will do, bags of flour, potatoes etc!!

 

The pressed salmon can now be left at room temperature, on a kitchen counter top to cure.

 

After 4 hours remove the top tray and turn the both fillets over, keeping them pressed against each other, re-cover with the salt mixture, re-cover the tray with Clingfilm then weight them down again.

 

Do this a further 2 times at 4 hour intervals and then leave for a further 4 hours. Remove the fillets from the trays & rinse the excess salt off under cold running water, pat dry with kitchen paper.

 

Your cured salmon is ready & will keep in the fridge wrapped tightly in Clingfilm for up to 2 weeks.

 

To serve, using an ultra sharp carving knife (not serrated as this will tear the delicate flesh), slice thin slivers, cutting towards the tail.

 

 

·          400g                   Pine cured salmon, diced into small pieces

·          1/2 punnet          Green beans ( cooked & refreshed in ice water, cut into 1cm lengths)

·          300g                   Ratte potatoes (or similar waxy salad potatoes, e.g. anya or pink fir apples)

·          4                         Shallots, (finely chopped)

·          2 heaped Tbsp   Crème fraiche

·          1                         Lemon (Juice & zest of)

·          1 Tbsp                Capers

·          1 Tbsp                Chopped Chives

·                                     Salt & Pepper

 

 

Boil the potatoes & cool, peel & cut into small dice, combine with the remaining ingredients & mix well.

 

Season to taste.

 

Divide the mixture between 4 plates; you can use a metal ring cutter to make it neat. Garnish with dressed salad leaves & (if you really want to go to to), a deep fried quail’s egg (boiled for 2 minutes 20 seconds, peeled & breadcrumbed before deep frying for 15 seconds)